There are two big "Ifs" and "buts" in John's answer and I would like to explain what can be done to mitigate the problems. Most printers that model makers use today are additive machines and if you want a durable model it makes sense to use a Poly Lactose plastic to make the model. Filament printers create the model on a machined, steel, flat baseplate. If you want a waterline model, it makes sense to create the waterline directly on the baseplate. The filament comes on a 2kg roll of
"plastic wire" and you get what you pay for in terms of consistent peformance. I prefer to use a matt white plastic because it is easier to paint than any shiny plastic. The plastic wire passes through a heated nozzle and the better quality wire has a better defined melting temperature range. The melted plastic is stuck down on the baseplate and the nozzle moves around stretching the softened wire around the form with a consistent thickness, determined by temperature and speed of movement. Stringing only occurs on the trailing side, not on the starting side of a line of "Stretched Sprue". Better quality machines, filament and experience of the operator all reduce the stringing and there are heated metal tools that can remove strings from models after printing. The Prusa Mini that is my family printer is capable of producing as fine a build up line as most resin printers and on miniature ship models, there is no real advantage to using the finest build-up line. As the plastic cools it sets and the finished model comes off the baseplate with a perfectly flat waterline.
Resin printers use a different mix of Poly Lactose plastics which have a lower melting point but can be cured after printing to produce a harder plastic. The soft raw print needs to be cured with , say, ultra violet light and that needs to be done in an enclosed chamber to protect the operator's eyes. The soft model usually need supports to protect it and these are fitted externally. Curing depends on having a plastic which is transparent to UV light and the thicker the plastic, the less well it cures. Matt plastic would scatter the light on the surface, so the surface of the cured model is shiny and the paint will not adhere as well as it does to a matt finish. The external skeleton absorbs light and puts the model in the shadow, so the centre of the model is still guey when the cage is set hard. Over time the centre will cure but then it shrinks and pulls the outer parts inwards to make a banana boat if the external cage is removed too soon.
It is really important that the cage is not cut away from the model too close to the model itself so that the brittle cage does not come away with a bite of model and that is why there are bumps along the waterline on Jeff's purchases.